Bernice Kentner describing the CMAS system

 

When we find our season’s colors, our countenance appears to be-
SUMMER – soft, delicate, peaceful, serene, comforting
SPRING – vibrant, alive, radiant
AUTUMN – dramatic, tawny, coppery, metallic
WINTER – cool, icy, elegant, regal

 

 Value and Intensity for Autumn
Autumn’s orange, violet, blue-green (aqua), red-orange, and Kelly green
are normal value colors.
They are not shaded (darker than normal) nor tints (lighter than normal).

Autumns could wear some of the tones lighter by adding white to their bouquet.
Chara: this applies to the  system. …….16 seasons theory has
tinted autumn =soft autumn light and shaded autumn is dark autumn.
Most of the bouquet is pure in value or normal.
The rule of intensity applies also
as some of the tones are greyed down by complementary colors
as in gold and olive-green.
Most colors are brighter in intensity. (Says Bernice K. Chara: Otherwise ‘tis Spring and Winters who are the Brights!
Value and Intensity for Winter
Winter’s colors are described as primary in hue because the season contains all three primary colors in their normal value and intensity. Pink and grey are the only tints in the entire bouquet. Winter’s dark green has been changed in value by adding black to the pure secondary color green, making it a shade of dark green. The same applies to maroon, which is red with black added. Winters may wear darker shades of their colors. They should be careful though to avoid very light tints of any of their bouquet.
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Reds
are good testers; they correspond to the deep skin-tone.
Summer’s red will be easy to find. It is the darkest Summer color.
Winter’s red is easily identified, it has black added to it. Chara: that is dark blue red
Spring’s red is very bright and – Chara depends on what kind of Spring
Autumn’s red is red Orange. – Chara – ok, that is an reddy Orange, but what about a Red: orange-Red?
Well there must be several more ”reds” – I for example have a tinted red, pink.

Greens
– There is only one green in each season. Chara, my my, is there really. Don’t believe that for a second!

Purples
– All cards look very purple except Winter’s, which is a deep red-violet plum. Do not use Winter’s maroon in the purple position.

Yellows – All yellows are obvious except Autumn’s. Autumn’s yellow is a mustard color. Do not use the metallic gold color for Autumn’s yellow comparison.

Pinks and Corals – Summer has two pinks. Use the darker pink for a good comparison to Winter’s deeper pink.

Spring’s pink has a yellow underbase in it but it is better to compare the coral color instead.

Autumn does not have a pink, you will be using the light orange peach tone. Chara: no pinks. What about golden toned pinks/roses, or rose with yellow undertone-aha, that was a Spring verson. And warm, medium browninsh salmon rose – also yellowy or golden. There was one in vogue somewhere -somewhen! in the span 1978-1982, I had a shirt in that color. Not the lights’ pale cool versions so modern the last decades.

Sometimes an Autumn will look good in Spring’s coral, but your Spring will not look as good in the light orange. Chara: corals are hard. There should be many hues. Most I have seen have been cold and matte.

If you have a question, this is a good time to compare Spring’s real pink card to find your questionable Spring or Autumn.

The lighter Summer pink does look good on a Summer but it does have a slight yellow underbase. This is a good card to use to find out if your Spring is a pastel type. Absolute Springs will not look good in it al all. Remember Summers can wear a peach color.

Browns – Summer’s brown is light and has a pink-mauve tone to it. The reason we use it instead of the more tan brown found in Summer’s Bouquet brown is that it looks good on a Summer but not on any other season. Some Springs would look good in Summer’s Bouquet brown. Winter’s brown is almost black. Spring’s yellow-brown is easy to find, but Autumn’s might be mistaken for the rust color found in that season’s cards. Do not use the rust because some Springs look good in it also. If you have any questions, the browns may be checked to the Bouquet colors. Remember that the Winter brown is lighter on the Bouquet strips and Summer’s brown is pink-mauve for reasons mentioned before.

Blues are not really good testers, but we want our clients to see themselves in their best blues. There is no blue for an Autumn in the cards. It is in the cloth drapes. We still suggest it for final draping only. The four blues appear on the subjective color test. Blue-eyed people sometimes confuse you when you check the light Summer color on them. If it is close to the eye coloring you might be influenced by it. Summers look good in Winter’s navy blue. Autumns look good in Spring’s turquoise etc. Use the blues for draping after finding season.

Winter’s maroon is a very good card to test with if you have a redhead who has tested out blue-based with the Color Me A Season Foundation Tester Kit. The rust color in Autumn which is brighter than the brown you have used as a comparison card, can be compared with Winter’s maroon. It will be very evident that the Winter person cannot wear the Autumn rust. The rust card can be shown in final draping on a Spring because it is their color too.

Autumn’s creamy off-white serves a very useful purpose. It looks good on three seasons. By turning any of your Chin Board Cards over, you will have Winter’s stark white. Unattractive redness will appear on a Winter person when draped in cream. A Summer tolerates the cream well, even though it is shown as an Autumn color.

Winter’s black is included for identification of a Winter person. Please remember that warm-undertoned persons who have black hair will look somewhat good in the black. Usually they wear it better just held over one shoulder as a jacket would be worn. An Absolute Winter looks good when it is used fully draped. Black is a harmony color as is brown. When working with neutrals that are like the color of the hair, be sure to notice what the color is doing to the skin (try not to be affected by the seasons harmony coloring of the hair).

BE SURE TO RE-DRAPE AFTER COSMETICS! Show the whole harmony of seasons colors of the season you client fits in. Do not do comparison draping after the correct cosmetics are applied. Some people may look better in wrong colors when they have on right cosmetics. They are not fantastic, but good enough that you might cause your client some confusion.

The Color Scheme of Your Body
(from Color Me A Season by B. Kentner)

Summers
The Summer person has a very pale skin tone. Their paleness is often of great concern to them because they look tired and washed out in wrong colors. It is the Summer person’s lot in life to never have a suntan. (Chara: Well, this is me, but am a Warm Spring/Warm Autumn.) If they do tan, they will quickly fade out. I do not encourage Summer people to stay in the sun because a suntan is not becoming to them. We should remember also, that over-exposure to the sun’s rays can be harmful to the skin.

Summer’s skin usually has a transparent look to it. It is often fine textured. They have a delicate look in soft pastel colors. When wearing dark, unbecoming colors, dark circles appear under the eyes and all the imperfections of the skin stand out.
Skin tone is light with a rosy-red or lilac undertone that does not come up to the surface. Summers are not prone to blushing. One might describe the skin tone as transparent looking. In choosing a makeup undertone, they usually use the lightest color with pink tones.
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The eye coloring of a Summer is usually light blue or grey. They may have a grayish-green or hazel, but very seldom brown. It is most unusual to find a brown eyed Summer.
As I talk about the color of the eyes, I want you to understand I am not talking about the season’s pattern. Another chapter will explain the pattern. What I am talking about is the overall appearance of color as you stand within talking distance to a person. If you carefully study eye coloring you will discover that eyes are really not one color at all, but a combination of many colors.  (Chara: Exactly! Look at my post :………..”=Each person’s eyes are completely their own color. I have not yet found two persons with exactly the same color eyes. I even find that each eye is different from the other. No one eye in the world is the same as another.

Some Summers have such deep blue eyes they appear to be brown from a distance. Upon close inspection, we find the eyes truly dark blue pools of color.

Hair coloring on a Summer is usually light brown or blonde and very often these people were towheads when they were little. Here again, any hair coloring is possible and they may also have brunette or red hair.

The overall look to a Summer is colorless. They are very dependent on clothing colors and makeup if they are a woman. The right colors are extremely important to a Summer. Color does more for a Summer person than any other season.

Springs
Complexions of Springs are of two types.

1- Light amber with gold tones, and

2- darker suntanned look with a yellow undercast.

There is one distinguishing thing with a Spring person and it is usually of great concern to them. There is a tendency to blush easily. Cheeks are often very rosy, especially after physical exertion or embarrassment. Spring’s do not always have rosy cheeks, but there is a lively appearance to skin tone.
Some Springs have a very fair skin and ore often analyzed as a Summer.(Chara: that’s what I said, fair, transparent  goldentoned, never tanning, always burning).

The analyst must be very careful to note whether the skin has a rosy undertone or if it is more on the yellow or gold tone. Very fair skinned Springs who have been told they are Summers are usually very dissatisfied with the light pastels of Summer.

Spring people like the brighter colors and are happy wearing them.

Very light skinned Springs will look better in Spring colors and may even wear some of the Summer colors. The proper cosmetics will help bring out the lively appearance of a lighter Spring.

Eye colorings of a Spring are clear and bright, usually of one color, such as blue, blue-green, grey or grey-green.

On close inspection, they may even have a great deal of mustard color yellow around the iris of the eyes. Spring eyes have a lively appearance to them and may even appear to be watery. Brown eyes are rare, but possible. More will be said on this in the next chapter.

Hair may be any color. Those red heads with sandy colored hair, blondes or taffy colored hair are often Springs. It is not unusual at all to see a Spring with very dark brown or black hair. (Chara: those are Clear Springs)

The overall appearance of Spring is ”Radiance”, especially when wearing the proper Spring colors.

Autumns
Skin tones of Autumns correspond to the Spring season. That is, the color of the skin has the same gold or yellow undertone. The underlying cheek color, however, is more gold or orange toned than a Spring. Springs have the same skin coloring, but with rosy colored cheeks. Autumns have more of a bronze look to the complexion.

There are fair skinned Autumns with lighter gold tones to the skin.

A fair skinned Autumn will generally have the lighter colored blue, green, grey-green, or any combination of blue and green eyes.

A dark Autumn often has brown eyes or green eyes with many brown and gold flecks. Autumn eyes will generally have gold or brown coloring around the iris or they may be almost clear opaque green with small flecks.

Here, again, a fair skinned Autumn will be beautiful in Autumn colors in their most vivid hue, but they may wear Autumn colors in the more pastel shades, giving them a great variety in the earth tones.

I find that hair tone in the Autumn is more helpful in analysis than any other season. Hair will have a bronze or metallic look to it.

Remember, do not rely on hair coloring to find your season!

 

 

 When not attired in proper color we appear sallow skinned, tired and ill. Every wrong facial contour is accented and blemishes and dark circles stand out. The aged skin appears more lined.

We find here a pattern emerging – Summers and Winters are the cooler seasons – Springs and Autumns the warm. For accent colors it is wise to choose the corresponding season’s colors rather than the other two.

Remember, the blue, rose tones of Summer and Winter; yellow or bronze tones of Spring and Autumn.

From ‘A Rainbow In Your Eyes’ by Bernice Kentner

 

Body Harmony Colors
One way to get into some good colors is to have your colors done by one who uses small pieces of material or Pantone color chips to match colors in you hair, eyes, and skin – The process is thus…

A color is placed near your skin to find the complexion tones. Several pinks or beiges will be given to you as part of your color palette.

Colors are matched to hair tones. All the possible colors seen in your hair (according to the opinion of the analyst) will be given for neutrals on your chart.

Eye coloring is considered and chosen for overall effect and then all of the strips, flecks, dots, whatever, are given also.

Some complimentary colors are chosen to go along with the other colors on the chart. When the choosing of colors is finished, you may be asked to paste them on a chart or fan strips of cardboard yourself.

After you body colors are determined, the analyst will term you a season, type of season or tell you your percentages of season. It may be termed by other descriptive names such as Striking, Rich, etc.

The drawbacks to this kind of color sitting are: you never see yourself fully draped in the colors and the Color Keys are sometimes crossed within the color palette.

The analyst may have given you all four browns of the four seasons if he/she has seen four tones in the hair. The mistakes made is that the difference between ash brown hair and warm brown are not understood by even the most experienced analyst. With those individuals who come out in their color palettes with all seasons colors or who have two or three areas of color in their hair, the analyst has picked up some of the blending of the persons secondary or third seasons blend (more to be explained later on this). The secondary coloring is always less attractive on the person concerned.

What is wrong with wearing all the colorings in your hair? Even though the change might be very slight when wearing Winters dark chocolate brown, if your complexion is ‘Spring’ the greying down of the skin tone can be aging and less attractive on you.

 

The colors you wear, if chosen correctly, will give a harmonious color effect to your own coloring. It limits the color selection but it is safe in that it returns to fashions previous methods of matching from your hair and eye coloring.

Categories Of Color That Are Featured In Clothing
While it is true every color in the rainbow can be coded into a season, sometimes there are universal colors that will work for more than one season. They are line-sitting colors that have enough of the right color ingredients that throw them to one side or the other.
Basically all people, men, women and children, can wear the following colors. If you are a clerk in a clothing department, the following descriptions may be helpful in helping you sell the right colors to the customer regardless if you have learned to tell the season of the individual.

Light complexion color
Summer: pink beige
Winter: grey-pink beige
Spring: honey beige
Autumn: golden beige

Dark complexion color
Summer: blue-red
Winter: plum
Spring: coral-red
Autumn: orange-red

Hair coloring
Brown
Summer: soft gray-brown
Winter: deep chocolate brown
Spring: yellow-brown—-what about golden brown?
Autumn: orange-brown—-dito?

Black
Summer: gray or navy
Winter: stark black
Spring: yellow-black —what??
Autumn: charcoal black

Blonde
Summer: cream or off-white
Winter: white, navy
Spring: yellow, tan
Autumn: tan

Gray
Summer: gray or navy
Winter: gray or navy
Spring: yellow-gray
Autumn: yellow-gray

Red
Summer: light rust brown
Winter: red-rust
Spring: bright rust
Autumn: orange-rust

Try to match hair colorings exactly and they will make the hair shine and come to life rather than overpowering its color. Lighter colors in the hair may be chosen also.
An exact match to skin coloring is very effective. Other beiges on the color fans may be substituted.
Dark complexion color is found by forcing blood into the fingertip and holding tightly to get the deepest red tone. Match this to season’s color fan to get an exact name. Dark complexion coloring in lighter tones can be seen when blushing or in the pouting lower lip color. Some Springs have purple eyelids. Enhance it with lavender eye shadow because it is a harmony color for the individual.

Other Colors
You will notice I did not give you the eye colors. It is here that you will have to look at the eyes to determine the overall color. When you find a blouse or shirt, for instance, that is exactly the color of the eyes you should have the customer try it on. It may be terrific with the eyes, but be the wrong color for the skin. Exact eye colors may always be worn in smaller prints if they are overpowering on the complexion. If eyes are olive green on a Winter, then go instead to a deep teal green to emphasize eye color.
Look for colors within the eye color (see color plates). I will tell you some colors. Can you see more?
Winter eyes
Plate I: red, rust, navy blue, gray, white.
Plate II: white, yellow, rust, navy, gray.
Plate III: black, dark chocolate brown (in spoke lines), teal blue (around the iris).
Plate IV: warmer light brown, medium brown, deep chocolate brown.
Link to eye plates:

As a good exercise for you, go through the other seasons eyes to find their eye extension colors. See how many you can find.
For those of you who have professional CMS fans, use them to see how many colors you can match in the eyes. If the colors you find are on the color fans, then they will be good colors for the individual to wear. If they aren’t, leave them alone.

 

THE DISCOVERY OF THE BLENDS OF SEASONS
I am going to take full credit for finding that people’s eye patterns (eye coloration and design) not only lead you to the basic season, they also tell you what other season’s you blend with. They also match your personality typing that Hippocrates discovered over 2400 years ago.
This is the most important discovery about human coloration and personality that has yet to be found. The story behind my discovery is as follows.
In my first year or two of color draping individuals to find their season, I would make a quick consensus of the person’s season and then color drape them to be sure. Any new color analyst has a hard time at first to identify season form the eye pattern.
With color draping, the season of these individuals was accurately found. After I had more experience of color draping people, I began to notice that sometimes the season the eye indicated wasn’t the best for the coloring.
Bit by bit, knowledge through color draping began to flow into my mind. Remember, I was alone in my search for seasons.
One of the biggest breakthroughs for me was finding the brown-eyed Spring eye pattern- Spring/Winter types. This was most certainly the most difficult person to color drape because the pure red, yellow and blue of the color wheel which belongs to Winter is quite closely related to Spring’s bright red, yellow and blue. There are some correlations between Spring and Winter and I find these two blending types more often than the others.
A little ”no-no” rule that my beginning teacher taught was that no brown-eyed people are ever Spring’s. I find it more beneficial to be open minded and not make hard and fast rules that might need to be changed later on. There are many brown eyed Springs and their blend is usually Winter.
The discovery of eye patterns was tremendously important thirty to forty years ago, but those who made the first rules were starting a new system. What worked then did so because it was working on the people they had tested thus far. Now I have coded so many people I am ready to give you a new look at season analysis as seen through the human eye.
Every person’s eye pattern is completely different than any other and yet the beginning discoveries still apply. Finding that they blend together is most important. The eye pictures in this book will show you how marvelously these things work.
I want to thank Patricia Ann Andrews, Ph.D. for sharing some of these eye pictures with me and giving me permission to use them.
Patricia and I became acquainted after I met her husband who is an associate and friend of the doctor who was caring for a foot problem I had. Fred purchased a book form me and took it home to Patricia. The Andrews give seminars on Iridology and health. Iridology is the science of studying the various colorations and markings in the iris of the eye to determine the health of the body.

Pat was intrigued by the eye patterns in Color Me A Season. She brought her eye pictures (many that you see here) to my color studio and together we studied and looked at the eye colorations to find a correlation, if there was one, to health and season.
We spent two full days together and many good things have resulted from that work together. Since I am not a trained Iridologist, I will leave it up to Patricia to write her own book on that subject.
In looking at the magnified eye pictures, it brings new focus on human coloring. All of the things we talk about in personality and human coloring found elsewhere on the body are seen full fledged in the iris of the eye. Even the whites of the eyes show pigment coloring as does the rim edge of the eye itself.
Please notice the coloring of the eyes. Some of the things to identify are: the quiet side, or Key 1, Summer or Winter eyes have cool tones. The Key II, Autumn and Spring have yellow to orange warm coloring.
Within the four seasons,
Summer skin tone is pink around the eye rim.
Winter skin tone is blued pink, gray or yellow gray.
Spring skin tone is from white yellow to radiant yellow-olive.
Autumn skin tone has orange tones light to very ruddy.

WINTER
1/A Valentine Red (Absolute; Snowfrost )
1/B Ruby (Absolute Snowfrost)
1/C Bing Cherry (Absolute; Snowfrost)
1/D Cranberry (Absolute; Snowfrost)
1/E Chocolate Cherry (Absolute; Snowfrost)
2 Bubblegum (Absolute-A/B; Firelight, Snowfrost )
3 Melodrama (Absolute-A/B; Firelight; Sunset; Snowfrost)
4 Antique Rose (Absolute-A/B; Sunset; Snowfrost)
5 Mulberry (Absolute-A/B; Firelight; Snowfrost)
6 Grape (Absolute-A/B; Sunset; Snowfrost)
7 Burgundy (Absolute-A/B; Sunset; Snowfrost)
8 Deep Violet (Absolute-A/B; Sunset)
9 Black Orchid (Absolute-A/B; Sunset; Snowfrost)
10 Crancherry (Absolute-A/B; Firelight; Sunset; Snowfrost)
11 Purple Plum (Absolute-A/B; Snowfrost)
12 Velvet Maroon (Absolute-A/B; Firelight; Snowfrost)
13 Wine Red (Absolute-A/B; Sunset; Firelight; Snowfrost)
14 Cocoa Brown (Absolute-A/B; Snowfrost)
15 Wood Sprite (Firelight; Snowfrost)
16 Maple Brown (*Snowfrost)
17 Sequoia (*Firelight)
18 Deep Pink Brown (*Sunset)
19 Primary Yellow (Absolute-A/B; Firelight)
20 Pine Needle (Absolute-A/B; Firelight; Sunset)
21 Shaded Teal (Absolute-A/B; Sunset; Snowfrost)
22 Eucalyptus (Absolute-A/B; Sunset; Snowfrost)

23 Emerald Jewel (Firelight; Sunset; Snowfrost)
24 Winter Khaki (Sunset; Snowfrost)
25 Wintergreen (Absolute-A/B; Firelight; Sunset; Snowfrost)
26 Peacock Blue (Absolute-A/B; Sunset; Snowfrost)
27 Sapphire Blue (Absolute-A/B; Firelight; Sunset; Snowfrost)
28 Blue Spruce (Absolute-A/B; Sunset)
29 Blue Pond (Absolute-A/B; Firelight; Sunset)
30 Blue Blue (Absolute-A/B; Firelight; Sunset; Snowfrost)
31 Blue Majesty (Absolute-A/B; Firelight; Sunset)
32 More Than Navy (Absloute-A/B; Firelight; Sunset; Snowfrost)
33 Blue Violets (Absolute-A/B; Firelight; Sunset)
34 Plum Pretty (Absolute-A/B; Firelight; Sunset; Snowfrost)
35 Shaded Violet (Absolute-A/B; Firelight; Sunset; Snowfrost)
36 Navy Plus (Absolute-A/B; Sunset; Snowfrost)
37 Blackberry (Absolute-A/B; Firelight; Sunset)
38 Military Green (*Sunset)
39 Smoke (Sunset; Snowforst)
40 Midnight Black (Absolute-A/B; Firelight; Sunset; Snowfrost)

SUMMER
1/A-American Beauty (Absolute; Sunshine)
1/B-Watermelon (Absolute; Sunshine)
1/C- Strawberry (Absolute; Sunshine)
1/D-Rose Red (*Absolute)
1/E-Fuchsia (Absolute; Moonlight)
2 Coral Pink (Sunshine; Indian)
3 Shell Pink (*Indian)
4 Orchid (Absolute; Sunshine)
5 Dusty Pink (*Indian)
6 Mauve Pink (*Indian)
7 Merry Pink (Absolute; Sunshine; Moonlight)
8 Velvet Pink (Absolute; Sunshine)
9 Heather Pearl (*Indian)
10 Camillia (*Sunshine)
11 Creamy Yellow (Absolute; Sunshine; Moonlight)
12 Dream Dust (Absolute; Moonlight)
13 Dove Brown (Absolute; Moonlight)
14 Dance of Roses (*Indian)
15 Ginger Peachy (Sunshine; Indian)
16 Toasted Almond (Sunshine; Indian)

17 Ash Brown (Absolute; Sunshine)
18 Cameo Brown (Sunshine; Indian)
19 Fawn (Sunshine, Indian)
20 Cloud Gray (Absolute; Moonlight)
21 Peppermint (Absolute; Sunshine; Indian)
22 Tropical Fern (Sunshine, Indian)
23 Light Avocado (Absolute; Moonlight)
24 Oriental Jade (Sunshine; Indian)
25 Quiet Seas (Sunshine; Indian)
26 Green Lagoon (Absolute; Indian; Moonlight)
27 Robin’s Egg (Absolute; Sunshine; Indian)
28 Azurite (Absolute; Sunshine; Indian; Moonlight)
29 Plush Blue (Absolute; Moonlight)
30 Moon Dust (Absolute; Moonlight)
31 Heavenly Blue (Absolute; Sunshine)
32 Ocean Blue (Absolute; Sunshine)
33 Blue Bonnet (Absolute; Sunshine)
34 Mediterranean (Sunshine; Moonlight)
35 Lilac (Indian; Moonlight)
36 African Violet (Absolute; Sunshine; Indian; Moonlight)
37 Lavender Blue (*Absolute)
38 Twilight Blue (Sunshine; Indian; Moonlight)
39 Navy Blue (Absolute; Sunshine-B,C,D)
40 Black (*Moonlight)

SPRING
1/A Tiptoe Tulip (Absolute; Striking)
1/B Scarlet (Absolute; Pastel; Striking)
1/C Carnation (Absolute; Pastel; Striking)
1/D Cotton Candy (Absolute; Striking)
1/E Whisper Pink (Absolute; Striking)
2 Sultry Peach (Absolute; Glorious; Pastel; Striking)
3 Peach Melba (Absolute; Glorious; Pastel)
4 Radiance (Glorious; Striking)
5 Deep Coral (Glorious; Striking)
6 Orange Sherbet (Absolute; Glorious; Pastel)
7 Coral Shade (Absolute; Glorious)
8 Orange Marmalade (*Pastel)
9 Dream Sheen (Absolute; Glorious; Pastel)
10 Golden Glow (Absolute; Glorious; Pastel)

11 Taffy Brown (Absolute; Glorious; Pastel)
12 Fawn (Absolute; Glorious; Pastel)
13 Prauline (Absolute; Glorious; Pastel)
14 Earthen Gold (Absolute; Glorious)
15 Brown Luster (Absolute; Glorious; Pastel; Striking)
16 Black Walnut (Absolute; Glorious; Pastel; Striking)
17 Lemon Yellow (*Striking)
18 Jonquil (*Striking)
19 Goldenrod (*Striking)
20 Butter Cream (*Striking)
21 Rapunzel Gold (Absolute; Glorious; Striking)
22 Spun Gold (Absolute; Glorious; Pastel)
23 Butter Toffee (Absolute; Glorious)
24 Golden Beige (Absolute; Glorious)
25 Jade (Absolute; Glorious; Striking)
26 Meadow Grass (Glorious; Pastel)
27 Leaf Green (Absolute; Glorious; Pastel; Striking)
28 Apple Green (Absolute; Pastel)
29 Pippin Green (*Pastel)
30 Yellow Moss (*Glorious)
31 Lime Jewel (*Absolute)
32 Majestic Blue (Absolute; Glorious; Pastel; Striking)
33 Sky Blue (*Striking)
34 Turquoise (Absolute; Glorious; Pastel; Striking)
35 Lavender Jewel (Absolute; Glorious; Pastel)
36 Periwinkle (Glorious; Pastel)
37 Teal Wash (Absolute; Glorious; Pastel; Striking-A/B)
38 Purple Pansies (Absolute; Glorious; Pastel; Striking-A/B)
39 Sweet Violet (Glorious; Pastel; Striking-A/B)
40 Charcoal (*Striking-A/B)

AUTUMN
1/A Poppy (Absolute; Striking; Golden)
1/B Brick Red (Absolute; Golden)
1/C Terra Cotta (Absolute; Gentle; Golden)
1/D Nectarine (Absolute; Gentle; Golden )
1/E Dusty Rose (Absolute; Gentle; Golden)
2 Orange Lollipop (Absolute; Gentle; Striking; Golden)
3 Citrus Orange (Absolute; Gentle; Striking; Golden)
4 Pepper Red (Absolute; Gentle)
5 Rosewood (Absolute- brown hair)

8 Golden Glow (Absolute- brown hair; Golden)
9 Bronze (Absolute- red hair; Gentle)
10 Tawny
11 Toast (Absolute- red hair; Gentle)
12 Brass (Absolute- red hair; Gentle)
13 Apricot (Absolute- brown hair; Gentle; Striking; Golden)
14 Harvest Peach (Absolute- brown hair; Golden)
15 Tangerine (Absolute- brown hair; Striking; Golden)
16 Clear Amber (Gentle; Golden)
17 Copper (Absolute; Gentle)
18 Mink Brown (Absolute- red hair; Gentle; Striking)
19 Nut Brown (Absolute- brown hair; Gentle-E)
20 Flaxen Gold (Absolute; Gentle)
21 Golden Wheat (Absolute)
22 Sunburst (Absolute- brown hair; Striking; Golden)
23 Antique Green (Absolute- brown hair)
24 Black Walnut (Absolute; Gentle)
25 Green Gold (Absolute- brown hair)
26 Olive Green (Absolute; Gentle)
27 Khaki (Absolute- red hair; Gentle)
28 Highlight Green
29 Jungle Green (Absolute- red hair; Gentle)
30 Emerald Isle (Gentle; Striking; Golden)
31 Soft Teal (Absolute- red hair; Gentle; Striking; Golden)
32 Delph Blue (Absolute; Gentle; Golden)
33 Rich Blue (Gentle; Striking; Golden)
34 Truly Teal (*Absolute)
35 Slate Blue (Absolute- red hair; Gentle; Striking)
36 Pewter Blue (Absolute- red hair; Striking)
37 Violet (Gentle; Striking; Golden)
38 Ever Berry (Gentle; Striking)
39 Gun Metal (*Absolute)
40 Charcoal (Absolute- red hair; Gentle; Striking)

This is from Bernice Kentner’s ‘Fan/Selector Thesis’.

SEAONAL FEELING TO COLORS
The seasons of the year are closely tied to color. Summer colors are lethargic. They do not move or create any type of excitement. They are cool (quiet wheel) colors lightened with white to give a pastel impression. They give a peaceful feeling.

Winter colors are stark, dramatic, bold and impressive. They are cool (quiet wheel) and awesome. Icy pastels appear frozen in their coolness. All other colors of winter catch our attention in fullness of tone. These colors give the impression of cool aloofness. They feel cold because the winter season (of the year) is icy and cold.

Spring colors are brightly animated. Just as the flowers of spring peek their heads above the ground, they give us a ‘coming awake’ animation. They dance before our eyes. They tease and cavort and then are quickly gone.

Autumn colors are the colors of the earth. They give feelings of a full harvest. They beckon to us and promise a fulfillment until we are lured into complacency by the richness of color. Too soon, a cold frost covers all as we find ourselves thrown into the coolness of winter.

CONFUSION ABOUT COLOR
By now most of us know that a light brownette is not always a Summer. We find this by testing the skin with the foundation tester kit and by observing the eye pattern and its coloring as well as the all important results of color draping.

I realize that opening up the scope or color range in each season may have caused more work for you. A great deal of thought went into enlarging this program but I chose to add to our program of color analysis because of the urgent need to live up to this growing new industry.

My hope is that this thesis will encourage you to loosen up your analysis and allow more freedom with color for your clients. I also hope to encourage keeping within the seasonal guidelines.

If you are on track with the harmony of seasons you should welcome this information. If this is hard for you, it may be that you are still wanting to keep it too simple. Simplicity can be our greatest foe. True simplicity is arrived at after complex studies have proven the base season and undertone of the complexion.

After we have discovered an individual’s season we must go on to establish if there is a secondary blend. Some people are absolutes and it is wonderful if they are. These are the clients who fit into all the right places with their season.

There are even those who do have a blend but their hair coloring makes them appear absolute. These are easily placed into a season knowing that they truly look that season.

CONFUSION ABOUT COLOR
By now most of us know that a light brownette is not always a Summer. We find this by testing the skin with the foundation tester kit and by observing the eye pattern and its coloring as well as the all important results of color draping.

I realize that opening up the scope or color range in each season may have caused more work for you. A great deal of thought went into enlarging this program but I chose to add to our program of color analysis because of the urgent need to live up to this growing new industry.

My hope is that this thesis will encourage you to loosen up your analysis and allow more freedom with color for your clients. I also hope to encourage keeping within the seasonal guidelines.

If you are on track with the harmony of seasons you should welcome this information. If this is hard for you, it may be that you are still wanting to keep it too simple. Simplicity can be our greatest foe. True simplicity is arrived at after complex studies have proven the base season and undertone of the complexion.

After we have discovered an individual’s season we must go on to establish if there is a secondary blend. Some people are absolutes and it is wonderful if they are. These are the clients who fit into all the right places with their season.

There are even those who do have a blend but their hair coloring makes them appear absolute. These are easily placed into a season knowing that they truly look that season.

The people we have concern over are those blonde Winters or dark haired Springs, etc. These people need good explanations why their appearance is different than the absolutes in their season. These people need a seasonal style title. They need to understand their own harmony (colors of the body).

As we work in each season we find colors that enlarge the season for four different types within. Their needs must be met with the same bouquet colors.

Will bouquet colors do the job? My answer is that every person in a season, regardless of blend has been proven to look the best in that season’s bouquet colors. Why do I say that? Because we have draped with the bouquet in each season and they have come up looking best in one season’s colors every time. After the draping we may suggest another fan strip choice as better than the bouquet color. However, the bouquet color is still not a bad color for them, especially with makeup on.

After doing this draping and when season has been declared, I hope that you will go on to do some testing for blends. Let me give you some ideas. If I drape with Spring red and it looks fairly good or even better than the Winters blackened red but the green of Spring is terrible I know I am probably working with a Firelight Winter. In this case you will notice that dark Winter green is a bit too dark. When you drape with Winter yellow as compared to Spring’s bright yellow the Winter yellow is just right and usually there are no bad comments from the client about yellow.

Winter yellow is often liked by a Firelight. Black makes a good complement to the blonde hair and white does good things for the complexion (not so much for the hair) while cream makes the complexion too ruddy. You may notice that the cream you tested with does a lot for the hair color. Keep that in mind because you will find the light complexion beige of a Firelight Winter can make a great suit, purse or shoe color as a personalized special color allowed for that blend alone.

We have found that a Firelight Winter fits into the colors that were first designated as Spring on the regular color wheel! What a shock! Why do we call them Firelight Winter instead of Spring? We do so because the true Spring individual’s complexion and hair coloring is so improved with the enriched colors of the double primary wheel. Those are the colors they really need. You can probably see that by creating the Spring and Autumn color fans we opened our seasons up considerably. What good is a system if it cannot grow and improve? By going into the seasonal styles we have found that there truly are differences within each season. We also found that we need our four color wheels and season’s fans. With them we have taken analysis into a more rewarding personal service.

 

 

 

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